Colleen, my 19 year old daughter & I took a surfing lesson yesterday & it was truly exhilarating!

Colleen & Heather surfing on Waikiki beach, HI

We signed up the day before the lesson so I spent the afternoon on the beach watching surfers, their moves & anticipated shredding the waves the following morning – doing the whole visualizing exercise of seeing yourself executing the proper moves & riding the waves. As you might have fathomed by now  – I am a competitive sort so I prepared for the lesson which means I took my Celebrex the night before (bum ankle from the past),  spent 1/2 hour stretching every body muscle I have, limbered up with a walk & ate a good balanced breakfast. Good job too because I was 20 years older than all of the other students (they had us write down our ages)! The instructor at the booth mentioned about 5 times that we could have someone tow us out as the paddling out was the toughest part, I thought; a) he saw my age & thought I would slow down the class or b) it was a way for them to make an extra $20.00   so I assured him we could handle it. We had our land lesson & then we were in the water. The paddling was tough but my days at the gym for my Green Bikini Resolution paid off & I was at the head of the pack with Colleen close behind. I can see why surfing can be addictive & why so many surfers are unemployed, living in tents or under tarps by the ocean. We were on small waves & we had an instructor setting us up with the right wave but Oh, the feeling of catching the wave & remaining upright on the board until the wave played out. As our kids used to say when they were young: ” More -  More” just one more wave before our time is up.

Heather shredding the waves on Waikiki Beach


That’s how we should be living our life & it is days like this that make me get all introspective about this life we live & how we can squeeze the most of out it.

So most of the class pooped out in the first 1/2 hour but Colleen & I kept going strong. In fact we were the only 2 that paddled back to shore – the rest were towed in. We sat on the beach after the lesson feeling tired but so happy we had gone out. I was wishing Dave & our other 2 children could have been there with us & made a pledge to have a family vacation where we could all hit the surf together – what fun that will be!

Colleen & I are heading out to enjoy a new day, we are feeling sore all over & we are slightly sunburned but ready to see what the day will bring….

Leave a Reply



SEO Powered by Platinum SEO from Techblissonline