Colleen, my 19 year old daughter & I took a surfing lesson yesterday & it was truly exhilarating!

Colleen & Heather surfing on Waikiki beach, HI

We signed up the day before the lesson so I spent the afternoon on the beach watching surfers, their moves & anticipated shredding the waves the following morning – doing the whole visualizing exercise of seeing yourself executing the proper moves & riding the waves. As you might have fathomed by now  – I am a competitive sort so I prepared for the lesson which means I took my Celebrex the night before (bum ankle from the past),  spent 1/2 hour stretching every body muscle I have, limbered up with a walk & ate a good balanced breakfast. Good job too because I was 20 years older than all of the other students (they had us write down our ages)! The instructor at the booth mentioned about 5 times that we could have someone tow us out as the paddling out was the toughest part, I thought; a) he saw my age & thought I would slow down the class or b) it was a way for them to make an extra $20.00   so I assured him we could handle it. We had our land lesson & then we were in the water. The paddling was tough but my days at the gym for my Green Bikini Resolution paid off & I was at the head of the pack with Colleen close behind. I can see why surfing can be addictive & why so many surfers are unemployed, living in tents or under tarps by the ocean. We were on small waves & we had an instructor setting us up with the right wave but Oh, the feeling of catching the wave & remaining upright on the board until the wave played out. As our kids used to say when they were young: ” More -  More” just one more wave before our time is up.

Heather shredding the waves on Waikiki Beach

JUST ONE MORE WAVE UNTIL OUR TIME IS UP!

That’s how we should be living our life & it is days like this that make me get all introspective about this life we live & how we can squeeze the most of out it.

So most of the class pooped out in the first 1/2 hour but Colleen & I kept going strong. In fact we were the only 2 that paddled back to shore – the rest were towed in. We sat on the beach after the lesson feeling tired but so happy we had gone out. I was wishing Dave & our other 2 children could have been there with us & made a pledge to have a family vacation where we could all hit the surf together – what fun that will be!

Colleen & I are heading out to enjoy a new day, we are feeling sore all over & we are slightly sunburned but ready to see what the day will bring….

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